Planted another half dozen bulbs. Will dig up more “lawn” tomorrow and plant another half dozen. Bit cold out now with a nasty wind. Looks like rain—ground will be softer tomorrow.

Took a picture of the broadbean patch, jeez you would never think this is two months after I planted the first 3 rows!

Might apply a side dressing of blood and bone or rockdust, add some gypsum too, have one bag left of it.

Young broadbean plants can be transplanted so I will remove plants from overcrowded parts of the rows and plant where seeds didn’t germinate.

Hope to get a decent crop but this is mostly an attempt to improve the soil. When the plants die back I will cut the stems at ground level and leave the roots in the ground.

Good news, thanks.
I planted out a wicking bucket this morning as it showered and more rain is expected.
Put 6 different seeds in there in marked rows. Can transplant them later .

Beetroot, silverbeet, eggplants, beans, zucchinnis, cucumbers

Was at the hardware store yesterday, bought some seeds for a bit later in the year. Also bought two more packets of broadbean seeds!

Looking at the broadbean beds I saw I could fit in one more row. I can plant them until late winter which is what it is now. Not so much for more broadbeans but whatever crop I will get will be gratefully received. No, will plant the extra row mainly to work that soil.

Will side dress the existing rows with some blood and bone and gypsum, then spread some compost and gypsum between the rows and lightly work that into the soil.

Think I have enough bulk timber to make one raised bed for the five or six blueberry plants I got.

Raspberries can just go into the soil—will spread so need to spend bit of time once or twice a year and dig up new seedlings, plant them where they will be good—patch of land not used for anything right down the back of the yard be good for that. Raspberry jam, sauce, melomel etc.

Jovial Monk wrote on Aug 13^th, 2024 at 7:15pm:


Gardening is very hard work.
It requires a lot of planning, a big effort, ongoing application, measuring, estimating, you are outdoors in the elements, experience, you have to cater to many variables, contact during the whole season and some luck.

It is one of the better activities you can do for yourself.

This pH tester has helped me for the past year or so.
Most plants prefer a slightly acidic soil, about pH of 6.5ish.
Mine was a bit alkaline, more than 7.5 pH.

I get the pH right in the compost tumblers. It has a faster effect there and is not yet in my wicking pots/forest. If one tumbler goes wildly wrong, I can dump it all.
I use the tumblers way before they are 'ready'.

Sulphur powder to acidify it, lime to make it more alkaline.
A big warning - do it just a little bit at a time.
Do all your calculations, then use 1/4 the amount you think you need.



https://www.bunnings.com.au/brunnings-3-in-1-soil-meter-moisture-ph-light-_p0246...

OK, one long row of broadbean seeds planted!

1. dig shallow trench

2. spread some blood and bone on bottom of trench

3. spread some gypsum (clay soil in my case, more clay than soil!)

4. spread soil on top of B&B and gypsum

5. plant seeds 20cm intervals, cover up with soil & water the seeds.

Going to plant  thyme, sage and parsley around my perry pear trees and also perennial alliums—help a bit to keep fungus etc at bay and start to build a guild around each tree. First fungul spray will be done this week, really reduce the amount of fungus on/around the tree.

Also do stuff to boost tree health—applying a lot of nitrogen just gives sappy soft growth ideal for fungal infection to take hold in.