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Some alterations to my orchard (Read 8510 times)
Jovial Monk
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Re: Some alterations to my orchard
Reply #120 - Oct 2nd, 2024 at 5:44pm
 
I don’t use those.
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Jovial Monk
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Re: Some alterations to my orchard
Reply #121 - Oct 3rd, 2024 at 8:58am
 
Used the pick and lopper to remove woody bits sticking out of the soil where the raspberries will go.

Then started cutting down shoots from trees cut down months ago.

Guess what? I found a sloe tree, trimmed that to get rid of dead branches and give it a bit of a shape. See how that goes. Free tree!
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Jovial Monk
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Re: Some alterations to my orchard
Reply #122 - Oct 3rd, 2024 at 9:11am
 
Oh yeah, talking to the guy who did the work around my trees for me he said the time broadbeans are picked here is January!
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Jovial Monk
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Re: Some alterations to my orchard
Reply #123 - Oct 3rd, 2024 at 7:01pm
 
Was carting soil to make mounds for the raspberries and rhubarb but acid reflux got too painful so drove to the chemist and got medication for that and put away the wheelbarrow and long–handled shovel.

Pain is a little bit less.

Tomorrow might work on the potatoes, putting gypsum, blood and bone and compost in the bottom of the trenches. With the long handled trench shovel not too much bending over will be involved. Plant the seed potatoes the same way and cover up with a layer of soil and one of compost—this is primarily an exercise of getting organic matter into the soil clay. Water in. As the plants grow will repeat the gypsum-compost-soil. Might buy some sugarcane mulch my next trip to Bunnings and use that to help cover the potato plants.

Some harvest of spuds will be nice but not the main aim: improve the soil clay. The spuds will break it up a bit and the gypsum and organic matter will start turning the clay into clay loam.

I had the trenches dug for one reason: the plant only sets new potatoes at the level of the seed potato or higher—planting the seed potatoes shallowly would not do much work on the soil.
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Jovial Monk
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Re: Some alterations to my orchard
Reply #124 - Oct 7th, 2024 at 2:34am
 
I have LOTS of cardboard, never threw away the packin g boxes.

One GREAT use for it—protecting my asparagus plants from frost! Both during the dormant stage over winter and spring-Christmas day against frost! Some bricks to keep the cardboard from flying away.

The acidity of my soil is great for potatoes. I have Nicolam Kennebec and Dutch Cream seed potatoes, will cut them to have pieces with 2-3 eyes and plant them directly.
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UnSubRocky
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Re: Some alterations to my orchard
Reply #125 - Oct 7th, 2024 at 4:02pm
 
Planted my vegetable garden, the other day. Will post photos of whatever sprouts.

We can play a game of "Guess this vegetable" in a month's time.
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Re: Some alterations to my orchard
Reply #126 - Oct 7th, 2024 at 4:04pm
 
Laugh till you cry wrote on Oct 2nd, 2024 at 5:41pm:
Stop inhaling the insecticides and herbicides.


Sorry. But, my yard is infested with mosquitos.
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Jovial Monk
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Re: Some alterations to my orchard
Reply #127 - Nov 23rd, 2024 at 5:55pm
 
Lot of stuff happened in my garden.

All described in the relevant part of my fine forum.

Won’t post in here again, not to describe happenings and changes anyway, for a couple of  months.
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Jovial Monk
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Re: Some alterations to my orchard
Reply #128 - Dec 3rd, 2024 at 7:44pm
 
UnSubRocky wrote on Oct 7th, 2024 at 4:04pm:
Laugh till you cry wrote on Oct 2nd, 2024 at 5:41pm:
Stop inhaling the insecticides and herbicides.


Sorry. But, my yard is infested with mosquitos.


Put in a pond with native fish—they will eat the mosquito larva.
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Jovial Monk
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Re: Some alterations to my orchard
Reply #129 - Dec 20th, 2024 at 7:38pm
 
Things happening, talk about it Feb 2025.
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Jovial Monk
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Re: Some alterations to my orchard
Reply #130 - Mar 2nd, 2025 at 7:23am
 
Rhubarb is thriving! Only four raspberry canes sprouted, six were dead when I planted them. Oh well, planning on ordering two bundles of summer–fruiting raspberries.

Will move the raspberry plants out of the mostly rhubarb bed, plant another 3-4 rhubarb plants in their place. I tell you, the plants look REALLY good, lovely clean deep-red stalks.

Won’t harvest this year, plants have to be given time to build the “crown” of roots.

Next year tho I will start harvesting! Stew the rhubarb, with strawberries and preserve most of it.
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Jovial Monk
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Re: Some alterations to my orchard
Reply #131 - Mar 2nd, 2025 at 7:27am
 
In the drive on the eastern side of my house I now have nine asparagus plants thriving!

(Thought I had lost one but nope, a defiant green sprig pushed out of the soil!)

Again, no harvest this or next year  Cry then can start harvesting a few spears.
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Jovial Monk
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Re: Some alterations to my orchard
Reply #132 - Mar 2nd, 2025 at 8:12am
 
My next project is two blueberry beds plus a new, bigger raspberry bed. So the space between the house and the drive on the western side of the house will become not the vegetable patch but the small fruits patch.

Blueberries require acid soil, preferred pH between 4 and 5. Now, I have bought a few bags of “Azalea potting mix” which has the acidity blueberries prefer. That is expensive and acid soil is not available in bulk (my clay soil means raised beds are necessary so I have to buy extra soil.)

Is there a way to acidify soil? Some were suggested, the main one: pine needles.

Plenty of pines here so pine needles are there just for the raking up. Great!

Do a bit of googling: it is a myth pine needles acidify soil. Damn! Same for coffee grounds. Oh well, pine needles make great mulch.

So I will use sulphur, either elemental or some compound, e.g. https://www.yates.com.au/yates-soil-acidifier-liquid-sulfur/

Blueberry plants grow wider so LOTS of space is needed:

1.5m plant spacing

2.5m row spacing

This is fairly intensive spacing!

Of course, the land where the blueberries will go is sloping so will have to level it a bit, leaving some slope for drainage. Then measure and mark out where the beds will go and start heaping up soil, creating a raised bed 50cm high, adding sulphur as I go. The bags of Azalea soil I have I will use in the planting holes.

The climate of Tasmania is ideal for berries, the summers, cooler than on the North Island Grin allow long slow ripening during which flavor concentrates. Might even put a shadecloth over the berries, slow the ripening even more.

Bird netting essential, of course.

I have several varieties, helps pollination.

Time to plant blueberries is late winter to early spring so plenty of time to create the beds.

The “small fruits patch” will have currants: gooseberries, white, red and black currants, blue berries and raspberries. Will relocate my cherry trees to the back of that patch.

In the 15m wide (!) nature strip as well as ornamental (Golden Ash and Japanese maple) trees I will plant four plum trees.
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« Last Edit: Mar 2nd, 2025 at 8:21am by Jovial Monk »  

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Jovial Monk
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Re: Some alterations to my orchard
Reply #133 - Mar 9th, 2025 at 9:06am
 
Next month will start the planting of broadbeans, plant two lots each month until September. Not just the boring kind of broadbeans—are some radical variants:

...

and:

...

Will buy two packets of each plus some commercial packets—aquadulce etc. The heritage varieties I will plant some early and some late.

In between the rows of broadbeans that will grow to maturity I will plant another row of commercial seed then hoe that into the ground when it flowers—green manure. It is only green manure if you dig the plants in BEFORE they set fruit, before pods start appearing. Full flower is fine but dig the plants in then without delay. These extra rows will also help plants weather any winter storms.

Don’t use nitrogenous fertilisers where you plant your broadbeans. Like all legumes broadbeans will form nodes in their roots that fix nitrogen. If you have alkaline soils a bit of superphosphate could be applied sparingly or crushed phosphate rock if you have neutral to slightly acid soils. Very acid soils dig in dolomite lime.


Talking of winter storms—it is CRUCIAL not to plant broadbeans too early! You plant broadbeans in Feb or Mar then your plants will be a metre or metre and a half tall in winter and winter gales will break the brittle stems! In cooler Tassie I can start in April.

Plant broadbeans in May, short stems planted closely in squares will suffer little to no damage from winter storms
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Leroy
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Re: Some alterations to my orchard
Reply #134 - Mar 9th, 2025 at 9:59am
 
Jovial Monk wrote on Mar 2nd, 2025 at 8:12am:
My next project is two blueberry beds plus a new, bigger raspberry bed. So the space between the house and the drive on the western side of the house will become not the vegetable patch but the small fruits patch.

Blueberries require acid soil, preferred pH between 4 and 5. Now, I have bought a few bags of “Azalea potting mix” which has the acidity blueberries prefer. That is expensive and acid soil is not available in bulk (my clay soil means raised beds are necessary so I have to buy extra soil.)

Is there a way to acidify soil? Some were suggested, the main one: pine needles.

Plenty of pines here so pine needles are there just for the raking up. Great!

Do a bit of googling: it is a myth pine needles acidify soil. Damn! Same for coffee grounds. Oh well, pine needles make great mulch.

So I will use sulphur, either elemental or some compound, e.g. https://www.yates.com.au/yates-soil-acidifier-liquid-sulfur/

Blueberry plants grow wider so LOTS of space is needed:

1.5m plant spacing

2.5m row spacing

This is fairly intensive spacing!

Of course, the land where the blueberries will go is sloping so will have to level it a bit, leaving some slope for drainage. Then measure and mark out where the beds will go and start heaping up soil, creating a raised bed 50cm high, adding sulphur as I go. The bags of Azalea soil I have I will use in the planting holes.

The climate of Tasmania is ideal for berries, the summers, cooler than on the North Island Grin allow long slow ripening during which flavor concentrates. Might even put a shadecloth over the berries, slow the ripening even more.

Bird netting essential, of course.

I have several varieties, helps pollination.

Time to plant blueberries is late winter to early spring so plenty of time to create the beds.

The “small fruits patch” will have currants: gooseberries, white, red and black currants, blue berries and raspberries. Will relocate my cherry trees to the back of that patch.

In the 15m wide (!) nature strip as well as ornamental (Golden Ash and Japanese maple) trees I will plant four plum trees.


Just watch the PH on your water for the blueberries, using a soil with a low PH is good but if you are watering the plants with water with a PH of 7+ will soon increase the PH of your soil. Maybe look to use a pool acid in your watering can to maintain the correct PH.

I'm growing some blueberries in a shadehouse, I don't get a lot but my Granddaughter loves them and seems to get them all.

I have a few fruit trees that I planted over the last 25 years, plum, apricot, peach, 3 varieties of orange, limes, apple, avocado, guava, almond and mandarin. I also grow vegies like tomato, beans, pumpkin, onions and strawberries.

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