Primarily: They don't want you to know the angle of the cutting edge to be sharpened.

My Ozito Chainsaw's Instruction Manual says nothing about the angle.

The Googled info of my chainsaw says nothing about what the angle is.

There is no embossed marking on my chainsaw chain to let me know what the angle is.

On the packet of a chainsaw chain I bought a while back there is no info about the angle the cutting edge must be sharpened at.

Other searches on Google just vaguely give the information that the angle is anything from 10 degs to 36 degs.

Unbelievable.

In fact it's criminal.

I'm thinking of blacking-up and going on a rampage of looting through my local shopping strip.

I can give them a touch up with a file if I need to, but I prefer to have the mower shop do it with their machine.
Thus I keep 3 or 4 chains and when I'm on the last one I put them in for sharpening.

PS I might add, another plus for having an expert do them is he can spot when it's time to ditch a chain that I might not see.

bogarde73 wrote on Aug 17^th, 2014 at 3:08pm:

I can give them a touch up with a file if I need to, but I prefer to have the mower shop do it with their machine. Thus I keep 3 or 4 chains and when I'm on the last one I put them in for sharpening.

I have a professional chainsaw chain sharpener. The round file-type that goes in an electric drill proved to be useless as bras on a bull.

Bought it from Bunnings for under $50. Hell of a bargain.

link

But incredibly nowhere can I find a note about the angle the cutting edge should be ground at.

This calls for a beheading.

So, since my links to User Meters for Windows 7 hasn't worked out, you have decided to use your chainsaw on THE COMPUTER?

A bit drastic, don't you think, Herbie?

bogarde73 wrote on Aug 17^th, 2014 at 3:08pm:

I can give them a touch up with a file if I need to, but I prefer to have the mower shop do it with their machine. Thus I keep 3 or 4 chains and when I'm on the last one I put them in for sharpening. PS I might add, another plus for having an expert do them is he can spot when it's time to ditch a chain that I might not see.

Correctamundo, Bogie.

You [b]can[/b] dress a chain yourself, if you have the info and tools to do so.

But it is far more time and cost-effective to do as you do.

The shop can do in minutes what may take you a couple of hours, and with far more accuracy.

Also, it's a good idea to get them to grind the edges of the bar back to true every so often as
well, and remove any dags which may have formed. And check the sprocket/clutch at the same
time, they don't last forever.

My family owned a chain-saw/mower/bicycle dealership for many years, so I do know what I'm
on about, for the info of anyone who feels like trolling...

---

Lord Herbert wrote on Aug 17^th, 2014 at 3:20pm:

bogarde73 wrote on Aug 17th, 2014 at 3:08pm: I can give them a touch up with a file if I need to, but I prefer to have the mower shop do it with their machine. Thus I keep 3 or 4 chains and when I'm on the last one I put them in for sharpening. I have a professional chainsaw chain sharpener. The round file-type that goes in an electric drill proved to be useless as bras on a bull. Bought it from Bunnings for under $50. Hell of a bargain. link But incredibly nowhere can I find a note about the angle the cutting edge should be ground at. This calls for a beheading.

Here's a novel idea... have you actually asked the repair-shop man?

This info isn't a trade secret, no reason why he wouldn't tell you.

This is what the dealers use... this one's from Stihl (our dealership was Stihl)
and can be yours for a piddling $NZ825.00.

It sharpens at any angle, and by changing the wheel and a few settings, makes
accurate depth-gauge setting a piece of p1ss. This is basically what my dad had.

Not worth it for the average home user, but essential if you own a saw shop.

BTW, here's a bit of interesting trivia for you: It was actually Andreas Stihl who
invented the chain-saw in 1928. He later became a Nazi during the war, but held
onto his company when the war ended. The rest is history, with Stihl being one
of the most highly-regarded companies in its field.

---

Neferti wrote on Aug 17^th, 2014 at 4:43pm:

So, since my links to User Meters for Windows 7 hasn't worked out, you have decided to use your chainsaw on THE COMPUTER? A bit drastic, don't you think, Herbie?

:P

As no one could solve the Usage Meter question, do you now understand a little better why I ask such questions here as a last resort? I do a lot of research before I finally open a thread here hoping to fluke it that somebody just might know the answer.

Kat wrote on Aug 17^th, 2014 at 6:13pm:

Get the pros to do the job ... quicker and more accurate.

Rabid nonsense. Use the froth to shave with.

I've sharpened two of my chains in very quick time with the machine in the link that I provided.

I pushed the tooth against the side of the grinding wheel to set the angle ~ but I want to know exactly what the official angle degree is for future sharpenings.

I say again: the sharpening of the teeth was surprisingly fast and easy due to the machine being designed for that purpose.


Kat wrote on Aug 17^th, 2014 at 6:13pm:

Also, it's a good idea to get them to grind the edges of the bar back to true every so often as well,

Good point. You've redeemed yourself. Temporarily.


Kat wrote on Aug 17^th, 2014 at 6:13pm:

My family owned a chain-saw/mower/bicycle dealership for many years, so I do know what I'm on about, for the info of anyone who feels like trolling...

Ah! Just the man I want to see.

Question: what is the angle of the cutting edge of an Ozito chainsaw chain for a 14" (355mm) Guide Bar?

Pitch: 0.375mm  ...  52 links.

8-)

I haven't had one long even though I should have bought one twenty years ago, and haven't sharpened it yet. How do you best judge it needs a service or sharpening at a specialist?

Lord Herbert wrote on Aug 17^th, 2014 at 8:31pm:

Kat wrote on Aug 17th, 2014 at 6:13pm: Get the pros to do the job ... quicker and more accurate. Rabid nonsense. Use the froth to shave with. I've sharpened two of my chains in very quick time with the machine in the link that I provided. I pushed the tooth against the side of the grinding wheel to set the angle ~ but I want to know exactly what the official angle degree is for future sharpenings. I say again: the sharpening of the teeth was surprisingly fast and easy due to the machine being designed for that purpose. Kat wrote on Aug 17th, 2014 at 6:13pm: Also, it's a good idea to get them to grind the edges of the bar back to true every so often as well, Good point. You've redeemed yourself. Temporarily. Kat wrote on Aug 17th, 2014 at 6:13pm: My family owned a chain-saw/mower/bicycle dealership for many years, so I do know what I'm on about, for the info of anyone who feels like trolling... Ah! Just the man I want to see. Question: what is the angle of the cutting edge of an Ozito chainsaw chain for a 14" (355mm) Guide Bar? Pitch: 0.375mm  ...  52 links. 8-)

No idea, been out of the game too long, and won't guess in case I'm
wrong. And as you've noticed, they're not all the same.

But, as I said earlier, why not ask the local dealer?

Not some kid at Bunnings or Magnet Mart (they won't know), but a
specialist dealer.


OH! Hang on! Hold the bus!

Just realised, I will be within a block or so of one of our local dealers
tomorrow.

I'll try to pop in and find out, for you.

IF all else fails, go for between 25 and 30 degrees, this would be fairly
close one way or the other, and will at least get you out of the poo until
you/I can get the correct figures for angle and depth gauge height. But
whichever, do keep the angle consistent throughout the chain.

---

skippy. wrote on Aug 17^th, 2014 at 9:22pm:

I haven't had one long even though I should have bought one twenty years ago, and haven't sharpened it yet. How do you best judge it needs a service or sharpening at a specialist?

Some reasons:

When your tooth angles are all over the place. When you can't cut even with a
sharp chain because the depth gauges are too high. When the saw wants to
curve the cut one way or the other. When the chain stretches enough to need
shortening by a link (can happen on an old chain, or one which was a tad too
long to start with).

With time, experience, and/or a couple of quick lessons from someone who's 'in
the know' and the right tools, you can do most of it yourself. Even truing the bar
is a piece of p1ss if you have a bench-grinder (no, an angle grinder will not 'do').

Basic routine servicing can be done yourself (cleaning the air filter etc) but most
mech repairs are best left to the service-man, especially if your saw is still
(Stihl) under warranty. Most saws require special tools for any major work and
some of these can be quite expensive and not worth buying unless you're using
them regularly. Your local repair-man isn't likely to be lending you his, either.

Also saws, like laptop computers, are designed to be as small and light as possible
so, like a laptop, they aren't always easy to dismantle or re-assemble without the
risk of doing damage if you're not sure what you're doing. One, for example (the
Solo 640 and its derivatives) requires splitting the crank-case to replace the fuel
filter!!

---

I have a Stihl MS 250 and the Instruction Manual states that the sharpening angle is 30.

George_Orhell wrote on Aug 18^th, 2014 at 8:52am:

I have a Stihl MS 250 and the Instruction Manual states that the sharpening angle is 30.

I went online for a bit of a look earlier, and most seem to be between
25 and 30, George, so if he goes 30 he should be fine.

It will certainly be close enough for the saw to be usable, and it can
always be corrected next time the chain is sharpened if it's not exact.

Re the MS250, looked it up as well, nice saw.  [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

I used to have a Stihl, in fact had a couple of them, but I've got a little Italian job now - Echo or something. Beautiful machine.
You can do your basic servicing but it pays, as Gatto says, to get the expert, if he's reliable, to do it occasionally to spot problems.

bogarde73 wrote on Aug 18^th, 2014 at 12:01pm:

I used to have a Stihl, in fact had a couple of them, but I've got a little Italian job now - Echo or something. Beautiful machine. You can do your basic servicing but it pays, as Gatto says, to get the expert, if he's reliable, to do it occasionally to spot problems.

Got the echo .... great little machine .. Apart from cleaning the bar, chain and air filters after use, I leave all my servicing to the experts

bogarde73 wrote on Aug 18^th, 2014 at 12:01pm:

I used to have a Stihl, in fact had a couple of them, but I've got a little Italian job now - Echo or something. Beautiful machine. You can do your basic servicing but it pays, as Gatto says, to get the expert, if he's reliable, to do it occasionally to spot problems.

I'm not lazy, and it's an easy job that's quick to do. I have very little respect for so-called 'professionals'.

I'd rather become a skilled and conscientious amateur at sharpening the teeth than leave it to some employee who practices the infamous attitude of "She'll be 'right, mate ~ no worries!"

John Smith wrote on Aug 18^th, 2014 at 12:10pm:

bogarde73 wrote on Aug 18th, 2014 at 12:01pm: I used to have a Stihl, in fact had a couple of them, but I've got a little Italian job now - Echo or something. Beautiful machine. You can do your basic servicing but it pays, as Gatto says, to get the expert, if he's reliable, to do it occasionally to spot problems. Got the echo .... great little machine .. Apart from cleaning the bar, chain and air filters after use, I leave all my servicing to the experts

What 'experts'?

What a load of bullshit.

Bring your chains around here and I'll do it for half the price and be laughing all the way to the bank.

Lord Herbert wrote on Aug 18^th, 2014 at 12:11pm:

bogarde73 wrote on Aug 18th, 2014 at 12:01pm: I used to have a Stihl, in fact had a couple of them, but I've got a little Italian job now - Echo or something. Beautiful machine. You can do your basic servicing but it pays, as Gatto says, to get the expert, if he's reliable, to do it occasionally to spot problems. I'm not lazy, and it's an easy job that's quick to do. I have very little respect for so-called 'professionals'. I'd rather become a skilled and conscientious amateur at sharpening the teeth than leave it to some employee who practices the infamous attitude of "She'll be 'right, mate ~ no worries!"

Sensei, does that go for Medical doctors as well?

I am worried I'll next hear that you've been practising home brain surgery!   ;D ;D ;D ;D :D :D :D :D

Lord Herbert wrote on Aug 18^th, 2014 at 12:13pm:

John Smith wrote on Aug 18th, 2014 at 12:10pm: bogarde73 wrote on Aug 18th, 2014 at 12:01pm: I used to have a Stihl, in fact had a couple of them, but I've got a little Italian job now - Echo or something. Beautiful machine. You can do your basic servicing but it pays, as Gatto says, to get the expert, if he's reliable, to do it occasionally to spot problems. Got the echo .... great little machine .. Apart from cleaning the bar, chain and air filters after use, I leave all my servicing to the experts What 'experts'? What a load of bullshit. Bring your chains around here and I'll do it for half the price and be laughing all the way to the bank.

they charged me less than $20 to sharpen the chain last time ... why would I bring it to you?

We were charging $5 a chain (sharpen and set the depth gauges) in the late 1970s, and
always had plenty of willing customers.

A lot of our trade were pro timber-cutters (cutting mine props and railway sleepers) and
it was neither time nor cost-effective for them to do their own chains.

They'd drop them off, 8 or 10 at a time, and drop another lot when they picked up the first.

Cost per chain wasn't high, but if you're doing enough of them...

Kat wrote on Aug 18^th, 2014 at 12:49pm:

We were charging $5 a chain in the mid-late 1970s, and always had willing customers. A lot of our trade were pro timber-cutters (cutting mine props and railway sleepers) and it was neither time nor cost-effective for them to do their own chains. They'd drop them off, 8 or 10 at a time, and drop another lot when they picked up the first. Cost per chain wasn't high, but if you're doing enough of them...

I think my exact figure was $12, but I'm not sure as it was over a year ago ... it was definitely under $20 so I used $20

I had a chainsaw many years ago.

used to sharpen it by hand. Just with a little round file by hand.
It always cut better after. 
I'ld imagine others would do a much better job.
Better to sharpen things when they are still in good condition. So just hone it up.

have some lovely japanese knives now I do the same too.

Apart from gaping the spark plug or changing it, and keeping the fuel fresh and chain oil topped up, I would take it to the Stihl shop for servicing and chain sharpening. 

stilhl farm boss for me.
awesome machine. i just buy new chains on ebay.
i run the premium unleaded, runs better.
i have a pic of me standing on a horse trimming some branches.
you know youve got them trained well when you can do that. ;)

The conventional wisdom is never hold them above shoulder level but everybody does.
I never heard any advice about standing on horseback though.

aquascoot wrote on Aug 18^th, 2014 at 1:53pm:

stilhl farm boss for me. awesome machine. i just buy new chains on ebay. i run the premium unleaded, runs better. i have a pic of me standing on a horse trimming some branches. you know youve got them trained well when you can do that. ;)

We have a place over here called the Quadriplegic centre. Its full of middle aged men who thought it was clever to perform such tricks on ladders, horses etc.

John Smith wrote on Aug 18^th, 2014 at 12:43pm:

Lord Herbert wrote on Aug 18th, 2014 at 12:13pm: John Smith wrote on Aug 18th, 2014 at 12:10pm: bogarde73 wrote on Aug 18th, 2014 at 12:01pm: I used to have a Stihl, in fact had a couple of them, but I've got a little Italian job now - Echo or something. Beautiful machine. You can do your basic servicing but it pays, as Gatto says, to get the expert, if he's reliable, to do it occasionally to spot problems. Got the echo .... great little machine .. Apart from cleaning the bar, chain and air filters after use, I leave all my servicing to the experts What 'experts'? What a load of bullshit. Bring your chains around here and I'll do it for half the price and be laughing all the way to the bank. they charged me less than $20 to sharpen the chain last time ... why would I bring it to you?

:o :o :o

$20??

They're selling the sharpening machine for $49 at Bunnings right now ...

You do the maths ...

"There's a sucker born every minute ... " (Confucius 500bc)

Lord Herbert wrote on Aug 18^th, 2014 at 5:53pm:

John Smith wrote on Aug 18th, 2014 at 12:43pm: Lord Herbert wrote on Aug 18th, 2014 at 12:13pm: John Smith wrote on Aug 18th, 2014 at 12:10pm: bogarde73 wrote on Aug 18th, 2014 at 12:01pm: I used to have a Stihl, in fact had a couple of them, but I've got a little Italian job now - Echo or something. Beautiful machine. You can do your basic servicing but it pays, as Gatto says, to get the expert, if he's reliable, to do it occasionally to spot problems. Got the echo .... great little machine .. Apart from cleaning the bar, chain and air filters after use, I leave all my servicing to the experts What 'experts'? What a load of bullshit. Bring your chains around here and I'll do it for half the price and be laughing all the way to the bank. they charged me less than $20 to sharpen the chain last time ... why would I bring it to you? :o :o :o $20?? They're selling the sharpening machine for $49 at Bunnings right now ... You do the maths ... "There's a sucker born every minute ... " (Confucius 500bc)

maths works well .... I've sharpened once in two years (I don't use it much), and have $37 more than you  ;D ;D ;D ;D

Kat wrote on Aug 18^th, 2014 at 12:49pm:

We were charging $5 a chain (sharpen and set the depth gauges) in the late 1970s, and always had plenty of willing customers. A lot of our trade were pro timber-cutters (cutting mine props and railway sleepers) and it was neither time nor cost-effective for them to do their own chains. They'd drop them off, 8 or 10 at a time, and drop another lot when they picked up the first. Cost per chain wasn't high, but if you're doing enough of them...

In this case I can see the reason for doing this.

Mine props and railway sleepers were made out of Jarrah, Ironbark, and Blackbutt timbers that soon wore the teeth down.

John Smith wrote on Aug 18^th, 2014 at 5:59pm:

maths works well .... I've sharpened once in two years (I don't use it much), and have $37 more than you  ;D ;D ;D ;D

"The greater danger for most of us lies not in setting our aim too high and falling short; but in setting our aim too low, and achieving our mark".

(Confucius 600BC)

8-)

Lord Herbert wrote on Aug 18^th, 2014 at 6:13pm:

John Smith wrote on Aug 18th, 2014 at 5:59pm: maths works well .... I've sharpened once in two years (I don't use it much), and have $37 more than you  ;D ;D ;D ;D "The greater danger for most of us lies not in setting our aim too high and falling short; but in setting our aim too low, and achieving our mark". (Confucius 600BC) 8-)

there you go ... at least you understand your problem.

Once again, nobody can answer my question.

Lord Herbert wrote on Aug 18^th, 2014 at 9:33pm:

Once again, nobody can answer my question.

they did .. you just didn't like the answers ... take it to a pro you tight arse

Lord Herbert wrote on Aug 18^th, 2014 at 9:33pm:

Once again, nobody can answer my question.

Herbie, as usual, you just don't like the answers you did get 'cause they don't fit with your preconceived notions.   ::)

Lord Herbert wrote on Aug 17^th, 2014 at 3:03pm:

Primarily: They don't want you to know the angle of the cutting edge to be sharpened. My Ozito Chainsaw's Instruction Manual says nothing about the angle. The Googled info of my chainsaw says nothing about what the angle is. There is no embossed marking on my chainsaw chain to let me know what the angle is. On the packet of a chainsaw chain I bought a while back there is no info about the angle the cutting edge must be sharpened at. Other searches on Google just vaguely give the information that the angle is anything from 10 degs to 36 degs. Unbelievable. In fact it's criminal. I'm thinking of blacking-up and going on a rampage of looting through my local shopping strip.

The angle of chain sharpening depends on if its to be used for cross cut or rip sawing, and the type of timber to be cut.

Lord Herbert wrote on Aug 17^th, 2014 at 3:03pm:

Primarily: They don't want you to know the angle of the cutting edge to be sharpened. My Ozito Chainsaw's Instruction Manual says nothing about the angle. The Googled info of my chainsaw says nothing about what the angle is. There is no embossed marking on my chainsaw chain to let me know what the angle is. On the packet of a chainsaw chain I bought a while back there is no info about the angle the cutting edge must be sharpened at. Other searches on Google just vaguely give the information that the angle is anything from 10 degs to 36 degs. Unbelievable. In fact it's criminal. I'm thinking of blacking-up and going on a rampage of looting through my local shopping strip.

25 to 30 degrees.
http://www.wikihow.com/Sharpen-a-Chainsaw

Lord Herbert wrote on Aug 17^th, 2014 at 3:03pm:

There is no embossed marking on my chainsaw chain to let me know what the angle is.

It's a manual, 45 degree "go by eye" operation - and a few degrees either way matters neither here nor there

That said - the GREATEST of chain sharpeners will let you know your chain 'has a life of FOUR to FIVE sharpenings, at BEST

The TRICK is ... DON'T HIT THE DIRT


ALL said and done - you can NEVER sharpen a chain up to  "as new"

... and being a lazy bastard, I fork out the thirty odd bucks ' and shout myself a NEW ONE, every couple of months

Thanks all! Good advice.

But!

I've learnt a couple of things since.

If you want your chainsaw to cut slowly while maintaining the sharpness of the teeth edges longer, then set the angle to 25deg.

For fast cutting but at the cost of needing to sharpen the teeth edges more often ~ set the angle to 35degs.

This latter is what I did ~ and it worked like a beaudy, and didn't blunt the teeth. That was a fallen tree trunk 35cm in diameter.

Yes, Buzz ~ it's the soil dust on these pieces of timber that act like emery paper filing down the cutting edges.

That's why I used my water-blaster m'c to hose off as much dust as possible before doing the chainsawing.

All good.

I also fixed my disc brake assembly as never before. Took it apart and finally understood how it works. I wonder if that's asbestos padding there.

The guidelines for the angles are on those files with the backing plate.  Keep the lines parallel to the bar and you have your angle.